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Rising shipping costs hit global trade hard

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The effects of restrictions on shipping in the Red Sea and Panama Canal are being felt around the world. Global trade is under immense strain amid rising freight costs. The apparel sector in many cases is constrained to airlift consignments.

The significance of the Red Sea shipping route for global trade is enormous. But for over six months now, Houthi militias from Yemen have been attacking ships in the region for their owners’ or operators’ ties to Israel. The attacks come as Israel executes its war against the militant group Hamas in Gaza following its massacre of Israeli citizens on October 7 of last year.

On June 20, for instance, the Houthis, who say they are fighting for the Palestinian cause, sank a coal ship with a drone strike. In response to the Houthi attacks, US and British military vessels have repeatedly targeted militia positions in Yemen over the past several months.

Additionally, warships from two international coalitions are operating in the region to secure maritime traffic along the Yemeni coast. The German Navy, for one, is part of the EU naval mission Aspides.

Shipping costs are rising again

Global trade has been under immense pressure since the Israeli-Hamas war broke out in October. The offshoot conflict in the Red Sea has meant higher freight costs and increased expenses for insuring commercial trade goods.

Shipowners are confronted with higher insurance premiums as the risk of losing a vessel has dramatically increased, above all, in the Red Sea. Moreover, moves to avoid the Suez Canal for safety reasons and instead navigate around the Cape of Good Hope, have greatly increased travel times and led to significantly higher fuel consumption.

The Drewry World Container Index, which monitors the freight market, reported that within the third week of June alone shipping prices for a 40-foot standard container jumped 7 percent — up a staggering 233 percent compared with the same time a year ago.

Searching for safer routes

Simon MacAdam, an analyst at the London-based financial consulting firm Capital Economics, says shipping companies are being forced to become more flexible. “The shipowners have seemingly adapted quite well to the situation, considering the limitations on using the Suez Canal,” he told DW, adding that costs briefly dropped this spring “after skyrocketing in January.” But now “they are starting to rise again,” suggesting there is no reason to expect any cost relief.

“Another driver seems to be that importers are currently moving up orders to ensure they have enough goods in stock throughout the year. But with ships being rerouted around the Cape of Good Hope further price spikes are more likely,” the Capital Economics expert said.
Jan Hoffmann, a trade expert at the United Nations Conference on Trade and Development (UNCTAD), also blames longer travel times around Africa for rising costs. “The detour around South Africa requires more ships to maintain supply. The average travel distance for a container in 2024 is 9% further than it was in 2022.”

As ships spend more time at sea, more shipping space is needed, he said. That means shipping companies have to charter or buy more vessels and hire more personnel. “And since these ships do not yet exist, freight prices will rise.” Hoffmann also pointed to another unwelcome side-effect of longer shipping routes: rising greenhouse gas emissions. “Ships have increased their speeds, which has led to a rise in emissions, for example, by 70 percent on the Singapore-Rotterdam route.”

Apart from safety concerns in the Middle East, global trade is also being hampered by low water levels in the Panama Canal, said Hoffmann. That means the waterway cannot be fully utilized. As a result, US shippers have had to integrate what he calls a “land bridge” into their sea routes with East Asia, meaning they have to transport goods across the US by rail or road from West Coast ports to those on the US East Coast.

Shipping bulk commodities like wheat or liquefied natural gas (LNG) across the US is economically unviable, he added, leaving shippers with no alternative to the very long and dangerous detour route around Cape Horn on the southern tip of South America.

But Simon MacAdam nevertheless sees some light at the end of the tunnel as far as a return to normal Panama Canal shipping is concerned. Water levels in the canal, he told DW, have “recovered somewhat” in recent months, and the La Nina weather phenomenon should “further ease the situation soon.” A slight rise in water levels in the Panama Canal has already increased freight transport there, added MacAdam.

According to Bloomberg, around 70 percent of Red Sea trade is still being rerouted around Africa. Simon MacAdam believes a prolonged crisis could overwhelm shipping companies and significantly boost freight rates further.

“Building ships takes many years, and 90 percent of new containers are built in China. Higher capacities cannot be achieved overnight,” Capital Economics, warning that the crisis in the industry could get “even worse.”

Coloreel Group AB files for bankruptcy

Coloreel Group AB, a pioneering Swedish technology company known for its instant thread dyeing technology, today announced that it has filed for bankruptcy. The decision comes after the company’s inability to develop its business volume quickly enough and, related to this, secure the necessary financing.

Despite many in-depth discussions with financial investors and potential industrial partners to secure additional funding, Coloreel has been unable to overcome its financial hurdles.

Coloreel has aimed to transform the textile industry with unique coloring and design possibilities through a sustainable and efficient thread dyeing process. The company has over 90 customers in the global market, many of them well-known brands. Over 120 granted patents across 45 markets ensure robust protection of the innovative technology.

“It is with a heavy heart that we announce the filing for bankruptcy today. We have been working very hard to introduce a new technology and new ways of working on the global textile market. Despite relentless efforts to grow the business, minimize operational costs, and secure additional funding, the challenges are too great. The board and the management are incredibly proud of what our team has achieved, and we are grateful for the support we have received from our partners, customers, and investors”, states Anders Persson, Chairman of the Board, Coloreel Group AB.

The filing also applies for the daughter company Coloreel AB.

South Korea and Germany cooperate in the field of industrial digitalisation and renewable energies

Dongshin University from Naju in South Korea and Institut für Textiltechnik (ITA) of RWTH Aachen University will cooperate in the field of industrial digitalisation and renewable energies in the future. A cooperation agreement was signed on 9 July by Professor Dr Chun-Shik kim and Professor Dr Thomas Gries. Professor Dr Chun-Shik Kim is an expert on German-Korean economic cooperation, ADEKO board member and former advisor to the Deputy Prime Minister, Professor Dr Thomas Gries is ITA Director and Rectorate Representative of RWTH Aachen University for Korea. The co-operation marks the culmination of 15 years of ITA activities in Korea. The fruits of this cooperation are the SmartTextronics Centre and the city partnership between the cities of Aachen and Ansan.

Dongshin University in Naju, South Korea, is a renowned university specialising in innovative research and practice-oriented education. It specialises in engineering, information and communication technology and renewable energies. The university is known for its international co-operation and its contribution to regional and global development.

RWTH Aachen University is one of the leading technical universities in Europe and offers excellent research and teaching opportunities. Institut für Textiltechnik (ITA) of RWTH Aachen University is one of the largest institutes at RWTH Aachen University and is internationally recognised for its outstanding research achievements in the field of textile technology and for its industrial cooperation. RWTH Aachen University maintains close co-operation with international partners and promotes global networking in science and research.

Kammac and Bergen logistics strengthen fashion & lifestyle services in the UK

Elanders Group businesses, Kammac and Bergen Logistics, have formed a new partnership to deliver a comprehensive range of logistics and fulfilment services for the UK’s fashion and lifestyle industries.

The collaboration leverages the strengths of the two companies to better meet the diverse needs of fashion clients. This includes utilising Bergen Logistics specialised value-added service offerings (VAS) in the high-end apparel market alongside Kammac’s scalable retail solutions and support.

The partnership aims to enhance services for apparel brands of all sizes across the UK with a wide range of offerings, including warehousing, distribution, storage, e-commerce fulfilment, contract packing, and pre-retail work, all designed to be cost-effective and responsive to the needs of the fashion industry.

Spearheading the initiative is Kevin Rogers, Head of Bergen Logistics UK. Commenting on the initiative he said: “We understand the current challenges faced by the fashion and lifestyle industries and the importance of a reliable 3PL partner to support brands in navigating these complexities.

“Whether operating under the Kammac or Bergen model, we are dedicated to providing solutions tailored to our clients’ specific needs. Our goal is to ensure exceptional service for the end consumer, be it e-commerce fulfilment, retail replenishment, complete omni-channel fulfilment, final mile delivery, reverse logistics, or value-added services.”

The integration of Bergen Logistics’ North Shields site will add to Kammac’s extensive network, enhancing service for the fashion industry across the UK, by catering to the unique needs of both premium high-end and SME fashion brands. The 48,000sq.ft. site, just 12 miles from Sunderland Docks and Newcastle International Airport, broadens the companies’ warehousing and e-commerce opportunities.

With a shared goal to deliver tailored solutions that ensure efficiency and adaptability, both Kammac and Bergen Logistics are committed to helping fashion brands thrive in an ever-evolving market, both here in the UK as well as supporting growth in other key regions such as the Americas, EU and Asia. Kevin added; “Understanding the mindset of the end customer is paramount, especially in today’s dynamic landscape where brands are navigating the constant shifts in evolving consumer preferences, supply chain delays and sustainability concerns.

“With Kammac’s scalable solutions complemented by Bergen’s high-end services and cloud-based WMS technology ‘CloudX Systems’, we guarantee a seamless and customised logistics experience for every brand, irrespective of its size.”

For more information on 3PL services for the fashion industry: https://www.kammac.com/ecommerce-fulfilment/fulfilment-for-fashion-products/

 

Mango creates the first campaign generated by artificial intelligence for its teen line

Mango, one of Europe’s leading fashion groups, demonstrated its commitment to innovation with the creation of the first campaign generated entirely using artificial intelligence for the limited-edition Sunset Dream collection of the Mango Teen youth line, now available in 95 markets. The company is a pioneer in the fashion industry and one of the first to develop the graphic image of a collection using this technology.

“This initiative reflects our continued commitment to innovation and being on the cutting edge in the fashion world,” says Jordi Alex, Chief Information Technology Officer at Mango. “Artificial intelligence is a technological revolution that presents great opportunities that should act as a co-pilot to extend the capabilities of our employees and further amplify our creativity. Because technology will either make us more human or it won’t,” he adds.

A variety of internal teams collaborated on the development of the campaign, including Mango Teen’s design, art and styling, dataset and AI model training, and its photography studio, among others. The creation process began with shooting with real photos of each garment in the collection. By leveraging the real photos, a generative AI model was trained to learn how to generate images by positioning the real garments on a model. In this phase, the biggest challenge was achieving images with editorial quality similar to a fashion campaign, while maintaining the characteristics of the garment and the model. Finally, once the images were generated with AI, the art team selected, retouched, edited and mastered the images in the photography studio.

This technological advance and the commitment to digital transformation are part of the Earn lever of Mango’s Strategic Plan 2024-2026, which aims to create value through technological development, data management and operational excellence.

Commitment to innovation

Innovation has always been a key pillar of Mango’s strategy and has helped the company become one of the leading groups in the European fashion industry. From the creation of a differentiated business model to brand communication with the main celebrities of the moment or the pioneering commitment to digital transformation, the company has been at the forefront of its sector.

Since 2018, Mango has developed more than fifteen different platforms that apply artificial intelligence at different points in its value chain, such as pricing and personalisation. Among the most notable is the internal conversational generative AI platform to address use cases of its employees and partners. Mango also uses an image generative AI platform to help the company’s design and product team seek inspiration by looking at different concepts in order to co-create prints, fabrics and garments and seek inspiration for window dressing, architecture and interior design. Other noteworthy platforms include the pricing policy on mango.com and in the retail store chain; the product recommendation platform for customers; as well as its presence in more than sixty countries and in more than twenty languages to improve customer service.

In January 2024, Mango ratified its commitment to digital innovation by joining Roblox, the global immersive communication and connection platform that has more than 70 million daily active users. Specifically, the company opened its first immersive store on the platform, located in the virtual Outfit Shopping Mall, where users can buy Mango Teen digital clothing and products for their avatars.

Devan Chemicals receives allergy UK accreditation for BI-OME NTL MG anti-dust mite and antibacterial technology

MG technology has been proven to be beneficial for those with allergic sensitivities to house dust mites. This has also been confirmed by an external lab according to French standard NF G 39-011.

BI-OME NTL MG is a biobased, non-harmful anti-dust mite and antibacterial technology

which guarantees optimal freshness and hygiene for all kinds of textiles, such as mattresses, mattress protectors, pillows, and quilts.

BI-OME NTL MG features a unique blend of linseed oil and margosa oil. Derived from flax seeds, linseed oil acts as an antibacterial agent, promoting sustainable freshness, while margosa oil is known for its anti-dust mite properties.

Devan’s customers will now have an opportunity to make use of the Allergy UK logo on their products that incorporate BI-OME NTL MG technology after signing a license agreement with Allergy UK. This allows manufacturers to provide added value to consumers seeking products that support allergy management.

“We are thrilled to receive Allergy UK’s accreditation for our BI-OME NTL MG technology,” said Richard Moyle,  Business Unit Manager for Anti-Microbial and Odour Control Products at Devan Chemicals. “This recognition is a testament to our dedication to creating innovative solutions that improve the quality of life for individuals with allergies. Our technology not only enhances the comfort and safety of everyday products but also aligns with our commitment to health and well-being.”

“Natural Materials: The Path Towards Brand Responsibility” Panel Discussion Comes to Functional Fabric Fair in NYC

As global regulations and increased customer concern drive the demand for sustainable products, forward thinking brands are increasingly turning to natural materials as a sustainable alternative.

This panel will spotlight how newer biomass-based textiles are complementing established materials like down and wool to not only enhance performance but also to meet evolving consumer demands for eco-friendly products.

Hosted by textile industry communications agency Formidable Media and scheduled for Tuesday, July 16 at 4:00pm, this panel will provide an inside look at how natural materials can be leveraged to grow brand responsibility while elevating textile performance.

“For years, brands have searched for ways to lower their environmental footprint while maintaining performance,” said Scott Kaier, President of Formidable Media. “Traditionally, sustainability came at the cost of performance. I think there is a great case to be made that natural materials are evolving to outpace synthetic materials, and this panel will highlight a lot of those achievements.”

The discussion will feature insights from leaders in sustainability and textile innovation, exploring the opportunities and challenges in adopting natural materials within supply chains. Attendees can expect a deep dive into the latest advancements and best practices that are shaping the future of responsible sourcing and manufacturing in the textile sector.

Hand-picked from across the outdoor, fashion, and lifestyle markets, panelists include:

FESPA achieves ISO certification for sustainable event management

FESPA is pleased to announce that it has achieved ISO 20121:2012 certification for Sustainable Event Management, an internationally recognized standard for implementing an effective and sustainable event management system.

The accreditation given to FESPA solidifies FESPA’s long-standing commitment to implement environmental best practices in its own operations, minimise the environmental impact of its events, increase positive community engagement with regard to sustainable manufacturing practices, and motivate print businesses to take concrete steps towards more sustainable operation.

FESPA’s 2025 events in Berlin will be the first in the speciality print sector to be run under the certification, which provides a comprehensive framework for organisers to prioritise sustainability without compromising on quality or success.

To achieve the ISO certification, FESPA implemented an extensive range of policies and procedures to address key, measurable objectives, including: waste reduction, energy efficiency, carbon emissions reduction and stakeholder engagement. These activities and the system were independently audited and verified by the British Standards Institute (BSI) certified awarding body under certificate number SEMS 799937, affirming FESPA’s demonstration of best-in-class sustainable event management services to its exhibitors and visitors.

FESPA has also led by example by measuring its carbon footprint at its UK-based headquarters for three consecutive years without a regulatory obligation and is installing solar panels to generate renewable energy.

Neil Felton, FESPA CEO, comments: “We are thrilled to have achieved the ISO 20121:2012 certification, which proves our dedication to delivering environmentally responsible events and championing the need for the sectors we represent to make continued progress on sustainability. Our team recognises the importance of operating our events in a manner that delivers exceptional value to our attendees and exhibitors, while also prioritising environmental responsibility and community engagement. We look forward to delivering our 2025 events in accordance with the certified sustainable events management system, and we hope our example inspires our community to look at ways of optimising their sustainability performance.”

The following commitments form the basis of FESPA’s sustainability objectives, as well as targets for events within the scope of the certification:

  • Planning: Recognising that sustainability must play a key part in the process and should be considered throughout the decision-making activities in the event management cycle.
  • Environmental: Seeking to prevent negative impacts such as pollution by giving purchasing preference to products and services that have sound sustainable credentials, as well as implementing: reduce, reuse, recycle.
  • Transportation: Reducing, wherever possible, the need for transportation (of sourced products) or seeking to reduce the length of the journey.
  • Packaging: Committing to the reduction and elimination of packaging wherever possible, seeking to use reusable or recycled packaging where it is required.
  • Product criteria: Researching the origins and manufacturing processes of key products to identify any process, ingredient or part which has a negative environmental impact, in order to assess the necessity, find an alternative and ensure that it can be disposed of within sustainability guidelines.
  • Purchasing criteria: Committing to responsible, sustainable procurement practices and ensuring that all employees, whether permanent or freelance, are aware of and abide by specified purchasing criteria.
  • Social: Committing to only collaborating with companies that share FESPA’s values with regard to the treatment of their workforce. Also, considering the local community in the planning and implementation of any event.
  • Energy: Committing to improving energy use, consumption and efficiency and, whenever possible, using energy from renewable sources.
  • Hazardous products: Committing to avoiding the use of hazardous products wherever possible. Where this is unavoidable, following the guidelines laid out in the UK COSHH regulations and ensuring that use of hazardous products is monitored and used within a controlled environment.
  • Occupational health and safety: Taking a responsible attitude to all aspects of occupational health and safety.

These commitments are also aligned with FESPA’s principles and values: aspiration with stewardship; authenticity with integrity; authority; inclusivity and transparency.

As ever, FESPA and its Member Associations continue to guide and encourage members of its community with the Sustainability Guides (including three new guides covering Sustainability Certification Schemes; Carbon Calculation; and Glossary of Sustainability Terms); the Sustainability Spotlight live event feature; providing speakers for seminars and conferences that have already benefitted more than a third of its member Associations events and by openly sharing insightful, educational and inspirational content on this topic online.

FESPA remains committed to continuously advancing its sustainability initiatives and improving its event management practices. By integrating sustainability principles into its operations, it aims to inspire positive change across the specialty print community to facilitate a greener, more environmentally conscious future.

To view FESPA’s Event Sustainability Proposition, visit: www.fespaglobalprintexpo.com/sustainability-fespa

For more information about FESPA’s sustainability initiatives, visit: www.fespa.com/en/sustainabilityspotlight

Archroma introduces innovative ultra compact Color Atlas

Archroma, a global leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, is introducing an innovative portable version of its market-leading Color Atlas by Archroma color catalogue to help streamline textile and fashion industry workflows with truly convenient color comparison.

The Color Atlas by Archroma, Mini Flex and Mini Palette editions are available as convenient libraries of textile color swatches that set a new standard for efficient color selection and comparison while on the go, in the office, factory or in a work-from-home setting.

Color comparison is a fundamental part of the work of designers and their textile mill and brand partners. However, achieving the perfect color match or color harmony without convenient access to color library reference books has long been a challenge. Physical color libraries can be bulky and heavy with even compact editions of physical libraries are too big to fit into a backpack or shoulder bag. The new Color Atlas by Archroma formats give designers a visual companion tool for digital color libraries may not be accurate due to the limitations of the user’s smartphone or tablet display.

The Color Atlas by Archroma Mini Flex and Mini Palette editions overcome these challenges. Both formats are user-friendly and travel-ready, with no mask required to isolate colors for selection and comparison.

  • The Mini Flex edition features textile color chips that allow users to quickly find and compare colors with their desired target color.
  • In the Mini Palette edition, individual color chips are inserted into slots in plastic palette sheets for ease of use and portability. Users can carry the pre-made palette sheet swatches or customize a palette sheet using chips from several swatches.

Both Color Atlas by Archroma Mini Flex and Mini Palette formats contain 5,760 unique colors: 4,320 cotton colors and 1,440 polyester colors. Each of the colors are also available from Archroma as Engineered Color Standards that include achievability information on alternate fiber types, precise dyeing recipes formulated with products that comply with leading international eco-standards, digital data for recipe predictions, dye eco compliance information and access to expert technical support from Archroma around the world.

“Our Color Atlas has inspired creativity, enhanced communication and helped ensure color accuracy since it was launched in 2016. As new ways of working digitally and physically along with the demand for speed reshapes the fashion and textile industry, we continue to innovate to support brands, designers and mills to work faster and smarter together, wherever they are,” Chris Hipps, Global Director, Archroma Color Management, said. “Our innovative new Mini Flex and Mini Palette Color Atlas products provide a true breakthrough for ease of use and portability compared with traditional libraries in use.”

The Color Atlas by Archroma Mini Flex and Mini Palette editions are now available to pre-order from www.shopcolors.archroma.com.

® Trademark of Archroma registered in many countries.
© 2024 Archroma

Paradise Textiles and Nanollose sign exclusive R&D deal

Paradise Textiles, the material science hub of Alpine Group, has signed a deal with biotechnology company, Nanollose for the exclusive supply of its sustainable Nullarbor™ fibres.

Under the non-binding term sheet for the joint venture agreement, Paradise will work closely with Nanollose, undertaking research and development (R&D) to manufacture yarns and fabrics from cutting-edge Nullarbor™ fibres. They will also supply samples to bolster customer engagement, working closely with Nanollose to promote the Nullarbor™ brand and its fibres and fabrics to prospective clients.

Paradise Textiles is the dedicated technology-first innovation hub of Alpine Group, driving cutting-edge research and innovation on sustainable materials, performance, and advanced manufacturing to reinvent the fabric of fashion.

Nullarbor fibres are eco-friendly, tree-free fibres produced through a microbial fermentation process that converts waste products into microbial cellulose, using minimal land, water, and energy. The microbial cellulose is then transformed into Nullarbor fibres using Nanollose technology, offering a viable alternative to conventional plant-derived cellulose fibres.

The partnership between Paradise and Nanollose represents the next phase in their ongoing collaboration to commercialise scalable technology to create fibres and fabrics with minimal environmental impact. Since May 2022, they have gained experience developing and presenting high-quality fabric constructions to select fashion and footwear brands.

Ashok Mahtani, co-chairman of Alpine Group, said: “We are proud to announce the successful pilot production of next-generation fabrics utilizing Nullarbor pulp. This achievement signifies Paradise Textiles’ ongoing commitment to innovation in fabric development and collaborative partnerships. Nullarbor fibre’s unique properties and production process will enable us to offer our customers high-performance, sustainable textile solutions. We are confident that this partnership will drive significant advancements in the textile industry and help towards achieving our goal of making fashion fit for the future.”

Commenting, Nanollose Executive Chairman, Dr Wayne Best, said: “I’m delighted to see this collaboration begin to formalise in a way that establishes a framework for both companies to achieve a commercial outcome. The relationship has been growing organically for some time and we’ve been delighted with the enthusiasm Paradise Textiles has displayed for our technology and fibres. Their expertise, commitment to sustainability and innovation, and customer base is a natural fit for our Nullarbor fibre technology. It’s proven to be a strong working relationship to-date and I look forward to the joint pursuit of our commercial goals through this strategic Joint Venture agreement.”